Friendship Tour April 2010

Passport to the Soul
Nowhere is but this feeling...

Hali Hotel Terrace; as the call to prayer calls to my very core - to love - to give - to see the joy in life as I sit and simply "feel".

It is so good to be free and soar with the seagulls through the skies once again, my soul reaching to Europeand Asia, joining my life from two different places on earth; be it America and my beloved Turkiye.

This place fills me that I may give...I want to give...reminds me of a quote from Kahlil Gibran "and to the open handed the search for ONE who shall receive is joy greater than giving."

Ha! My mission for today...a smile, a new friend, serendipity lives on...

Fun Day at the Hammami (Turkish Bath)

Always one of my favorite days is to visit the hamam. A warm and friendly welcome from longtime friends...relaxing, rejuvinating, comforting. I'm doing the usual routine, laying there on the steamy marble slab enjoying my massage of "scrubbing bubbles" and my lady Gunnur starts singing away, then Sevgi starts in, which leads to another woman singing, the place is echoing with beautiful music, laughter, and delight within a community of women! It was a contagious smile that spred to the foreign tourists discoving the experience of the hamam for the first time. They were truly silly today and I'm happy to be a part of their joy...

Later when we were sharing a tea together, they told me that the old woman who was making the crochet and beaded scarves has passed away. I'm happy to have known her and to have the photos and the memories in my heart from when she discovered my interest in her art... remember Sharon, when they decorated us with scarves and taught us how to "wear" them properly? And Eric, the scarf I gave to you and Linda was made by her. Memories and laughter we shared back then and the pain today of hearing a dear lady is gone from us...the circle of life continues and to know pain is to recognize the simple joy of living.

Shopping...the Turkish Way
What a beautiful day it is, and refreshing to be back in my "element". A reminder of WHY my soul lives here. I headed out to the bazaar today, visited with my vendor friends and met some new ones! Yes, THIS is what it's all about...life and friendship. Sharing a connection even with those we don't communicate in words.

I brought some photos from a previous visit to Hoca (aka The Tribal Guy). He loved them...there is one of his Uzbek wife, just georgous. Her eyes say it all... We had several laughs and he made me leave him owing money!!! He has told me funny stories over the years. He says "my life is a comedy" One in particular that warms my heart is about his birthdate. We think we are about the same age, but he doesn't know exactly when he was born. He asked his mom and she said it was "some time after the grapes finished" On his ID it says 1.1.1962. All his brothers and sisters ID's say Jan 1 and some year as well. Can you imagine not knowing exactly when you were born? huh!

Today, he did his usual of throwing things around as I searched through the many pieces of Uzbek handmade pieces, and talked me into bringing different pieces to try and sell. He said "when the world is changing, you must change a little bit too", and insisted I take the merchandise and pay him later, we laughed and laughed. I said "our business together is a comedy!"

Then off to see Nizam (copper man) and of course bought pieces I don't need and probably can't sell, but I took him a bottle of Jack Daniels (a rare and desired commodity in Turkiye) and he gave gifts to me and Alysia. He showed me a recent book published about the Grand Bazaar with him, his shop, and a feature of him and his brother...a true gem that he is so proud of. I felt I understood every Turkish word he spoke! The look we shared as I was saying goodby truly tugged at my heart.

My new friends of the day are Semih and Sertac. They sell the handmade copper lanterns as you see in the Anatolian Table Restaurant in Sacramento. I was introduced to them by Erol, the restaurant owner. He had bought many things from them to decorate his restaurant and wanted me to make a connection for selling these lanterns. They are truly gracious people...get ready, cuz I'm bringing as many as I can fit in my luggage!

Cappadocia
My Cappadocia Family at the SOS Cave Hotel

It’s my home away from home. The guys are so kind andgenerous, taking care of my every need, even before I know I need it! I sleep deeplyin my cave room and wake up each morning in awe as I watch the hot air balloonsfloating up the valley, past the terrace while I enjoy my Turkish breakfast andtea.
Cetin calls me mum, Volkan says I am his “abla” (older sister), and Musa –I call him Uncle Musa. During this visit, I met a sweet older couple from DCand a girl who has just moved here from Reno. She visited Turkey for the firsttime on a whim in February, fell in love with the place and was offered a jobworking as an English hostess for one of the hotels. We enjoyed sharing ourstories and love for Turkey over a bottle of wine one night. I told her thather story belongs in that book The ExpatHarem!

Cetin’s mom handmade this traditional Turkish scarf as agift for me and my friendship to her son. Next summer I hope to travel east totheir family village and meet her to say “thank you” in person. I have planned,with Musa as our guide, a tour there to the Malatya Apricot festival, a homestay in their village, including a “mountain party” as Cetin calls it; completewith fire, some wine, music and dance! We’ll also visit Mt. Nemrut and discoverwhatever else may come our way. With Musa as our guide, anything is possible!Be it stopping along the roadside to raid a fruit orchard, or finding the “bestTurkish ice cream.”


Volkan guided me andsome Korean girls hiking through Rose Valley to watch the beautiful sunset. Incrediblecolors and rock formations, tea stop at an old cave church, and spectacularsunset! On the hike is when he took that photo of me that I just put up on myfacebook page. A day of beauty to be sure. To be here is to feel earthy andcalm…I always feel such peace in the silence here after the busy city ofIstanbul. Always tears when I am leaving…3 days is just not enough time!

Why Not?

Today we drove to see a huge organic orchard for sale in Central Anatolia. Musa’s idea is to make a place for totally organic vacationing. Where you can stay a week or two and “live the life…gardening, cooking classes, olive oil soap making (and if you have had the opportunity to try the olive oil soaps I bring home, you will never change back!) fishing, horses, chickens, cows and sheep. You can participate in the natural way of living here, and help with the harvest of the fruit trees if you visit in the fall. I named it Musa’s Organic Garden Hotel. He was talking of building ranch style bungalows for the guests around the central main house. There’s a big outdoor oven/fireplace, and the space to build a huge farm kitchen to accommodate the cooking classes and provide meals for the workers. The orchard is already producing and is running in the black, so with his ideas to expand…the ROI is immediate. Know any venture capitalists? *grin* It’s a big project, but Musa is always thinking of a way to make business opportunities to help the people. He says “why not? Anything is possible…when we work together, we will succeed.” This project could provide a better life for 100 families, living and working the farm, sending their children to school, providing insurance and the basic needs that for some people in the East of Turkey, is not even possible to attain. I hope and dream to be involved in this somehow…don’t know exactly how yet, buy my heart is there!

I have a link in English if you would like more info!

A Day in RomaniaRomania…land of mystery – have always been intrigued, but after reading the book The Historian, it was a must visit!Bucharest means: be joyful

Had not even arrived in Bucharest, and made new Romanian friends; Camilla and Braskov! They started talking to me on the plane from Istanbul. They love to ski, have a 17yr old daughter and have always wanted to visit America. Of course I invited them to California anytime they like…but they think it may be difficult to get a visa. They say it’s really just a lottery, and ya never know. But they were so sweet and interesting. We’ll keep in touch by email.

Arrived the airport and was met by Andrei Nicolau, the owner of Tours-of-Romania.com
Thank you Eric, for connecting us. Knowing how much you enjoyed your tour with them, the love we share for history and culture, I had a feeling this place would be even more than I imagined!

Straight off the plane we went to a dinner show to see some Romanian Folk Dancing!! Local wine, stuffed sourcrout leaves, bolenta (cornmeal grits) and salad. mmmmm delicious. Then on to my hotel in the city center. New and very comfortable. I slept like a princess.

Early morning breakfast and off we drove to the north!

First stop; The Grand Hotel which was a famous stop on the Orient Express, complete with casino. He wantedto show me the hotels that my clients will stay in when on his tours. All of them are very nice, lots of character, clean and comfortable. The countryside was beautiful; green plains and rolling hills leading into the Carpathian Mountains.

Sinia Monastery from 1690, with a fresco of The Last Judgment, and a church built in 1840. Very decadent with gold everything inside.

Peles Castle of German Renaissance Architecture, an art gallery still owned by the last king of Romania – King Michael, who still lives. The hand carved walnut woodwork is incredible..I don’t even have enough words to describe how beautiful and ornate the décor is.

Up and over the Carpathians into Transylvania…farmland and Bran Castle aka Dracula’s Castle.
Built by the crusaders, used as a military checkpoint to Austro-Hungry trade route during the Renaissance.

And finally Brasov…a medieval walled town of the German Renaissance Guilds. Old “black church” which was set on fire, but did not burned. The town square which always has some cultural event going on. The buildings surrounding are ecletic of various architectures over the years. And we even came across a Romanian wedding paryt!

We talked about so many topics. Andrei is like a history book, worldly, professional, funny, and kind. I believe he’s about my age; was a young adult during the revolution, and has seen many changes since the wall came down. I look forward to working together to promote tours in Eastern Europe with him!

Sarah's Wild Ride!

So they put me on an overnight bus from Bucharest to Istanbul because of the airport closures due to the Iceland cloud. I left Bucharest one day earlier and didn't get to go on the “city tour” which was planned for Monday before my flight. Andrie, the tour company owner was so helpful, and with his connections, was able to find me a seat on a crowded bus which went through Bulgaria and arrived in Istanbul early morning.
My reservation for the ASTA convention started later in the day in Taxim…an area of Istanbul which I have stayed before, but does not feel like home as Sultanahmet does.

I was excited to see Bulgaria too…even if from a bus window! And thought "if the service here is like in Turkiye, I will be comfortable and have no problems…we shall see what happens!"

It’s kind of crazy that I now had in my wallet, USD, Euro, Turkish Lira, and Romanian Lei…hopefully enough Lei to buy some water and nuts for a snack on the way.

Interesting how it was still sunny here, yet all the airports were closed, but it was better while there were still seats on the bus than wait till when the travel complications increase. I wondered what was going to happen when it was time to fly back to the states on Sunday?

Many hours later…

Craziness at the Turkish border! …there were miles and miles of trucks lined up trying to bring their wares into Turkey. We practically drove off the side of the road to get past them and then landed at the border patrol and waited 2.5 hours to get though passport control and customs. It maked me think like I really was trying to get through the Iron Curtain!

I was the only American and was treated with much respect. I was able to stay on the bus while the others had to get off the bus, on the bus, and off the bus again, it’s a crazy system…we had to take all our luggage off the bus and open it for the customs people….the bus driver and the bus hostess Mari, were taking good care of me, thank goodness because I didn't understand a word they were saying!

We took on more people from another bus so it was even more crowded. Even the seat next to was is occupied. It was crazy listening to the animated conversations! They are very passionate when they speak, and no one seemed to know exactly what was going on…so I just sat there and wait. Even though I was really tired, I enjoyed the experience!

Finally…morning and back in Istanbul.

The expressway in Turkiye was wonderful compared to the back roads of Bulgaria where there were and miles of driving slowly on dirt roads through villages (a 3^rd world country to be sure) Even Romania was much more advanced in their infrastructure and accommodation. I did not see even one sit down toilet in Bulgaria, and the mini markets stock the very basics…couldn’t even find a coke! Only water, an apple, and some nuts.

We arrived “’somewhere in Istanbul” early morning…not even a bus stop!!! Just somewhere along a roadway! Ha, everyone piled off the bus and I had NO idea where I was, but a taxi was waiting and knew where I wanted to go, so yeah…I was safe and sound once again in Istanbul; sitting on the Hali Hotel terrace, drinking an Efes, while wating to take a taxi to Taxim for check in to the ASTA convention.

My hotel was the Ramada Plaza Hotel; a 5 star with all the amenities I’m certain, but far away from my familiar territory – Sultanahmet.

The domestic flights were going from Istanbul airport, but all international flights had been cancelled. I still had a few days here, and hoped the cloud would pass and operations would start up again….otherwise heh, I would have to stay and become “Turkish” lol. Not a bad thing, but I was missing my family and friends and had lots of work to do when I returned home.

ASTA Convention

Typical American convention, but taking place in a very different culture! Wonder how many of these people have a pssion for more than “selling travel.” How many know and love the secrets of this enchanting country? Who will I meet? How many will I make a connection with? I feel the outsider in the American world of tourism. What will I gain from this experience of “professional travel agents?” I have an open mind, smiling heart, it will be what it is…

The welcome reception was on Suada Island, the only island on the Bospherous waterway which separatesEurope and Asia. A very nice boat ride during the sunset, dampered by the Iceland cloud which seems to be putting a damper on everything these past few days in Europe, but some folks were still able to make the international flight from NYC, and there are at least a thousand people here so that’s good. Delicious food and my favorite Turkish wine, Yakut! Many of you have tasted it before…as it’s the only Turkish wine I can find in the states.

ASTA’s “Turkey specialist” certifications, yeah! I’m now certified by ASTA as a specialist to sell travel in Turkey. Hahaha seems I could have been one of presenters at the seminars. There was a very interesting class about Turkish Cuisine, the woman is sweet and loves what she does…gives cooking classes at her village in Mugla, near Bodrum. Hehehe been there, done that!

The best part of the day was meeting up with old friends! Had lunch with Asli and Ahu…many of you have enjoyed their hospitality before. They were sweet and lovely as always! We enjoyed remembering our times together at Asli’s home, cooking classes at “The farm” and Ahu as our guide to Ephesus and the mountain village Sirence. Also met Asli’s new assistant, Oslem, who is very young and just finishing her courses at the university for tourism. I’ve invited her to visit us in America, she is soooo excited and wants to learn about our culture and practice her English.

Tonight, we had the dinner in an underground Cistern in Sultanahmet, music and dance, and more Turkish wine!! Well, can you tell I like the wine here? Have met so many new contacts and friends. It has been a good business trip and have high hopes for the future of tourism and promoting my favorite places in the world!

Abby- and American working in Istanbul for a tour company.

And Joshua from Kenya. hmmm wonder if my next destination will be Africa!





















Next stop, Bodrum! Time to relax in my mountain village and visit with lovely people. Can’t wait to see Tekal again and “mum” – she makes the absolute BEST Baklava ever tasted!! Bulent has purchased new mountain bikes and we are gonna plan out some “day trip” routes around the area. I’ve asked him to take me to see Aossos, an old ruin along the coast, a mini Ephesus sans mass tourism…it will be a new stop on our tours. And will visit with a new boat company…one of my missions on this trip was to find a different company to work with as this has been a difficulty in the past. Here’s hoping for more adventure in my last few days of this journey!!

Ahhh...the Village

Peaceful as always, mountain breezes, and sunshine kissing my face.

A simple breakfast of fresh bread, honey, olives, and tea. Friends stopped by to say hello…curious to see the new guest staying at the “cultural center.” Sometimes bellydance girls, or yoga students. Sometimes people coming for cooking classes, and sometimes those who just want to relax and feel the simple life.

Dancing with the wind…

We worked in the garden, I found beautiful spring flowers blooming, then I climbed up into the tree house overlooking the breathtaking valley…here I sit writing this, thinking, hoping, praying for all joy and happiness to those I love, and you are many.

Excitement is in the air for the wedding on Saturday. Everyone is excited and of course this is a reason to drink Raki and celebrate! The guys showed up tonight with a feast! Ha! Guys in the kitchen, I love it! Fresh crumbled cheese made half an hour ago, and the yellow cream (like butter) from the yogurt. An organic green salad, onion sticks, mint leaves “medicine” they say. Home baked bread from the outdoor oven, olives from the garden, and slices of fresh lemon. My taste buds are melting and enjoying every flavor!

It’s a community table as always…they are feeding me bits of bread dipped in the olive oil, scooped in the yogurt cheese, with a slice of tomato and mint leaf mmmm and wine to top it off! The chicken is hot off the grillwith olive oil, red peppers, and who knows what ever spices, simply delicious! Zorn music is playing. We are dining outside under the stars and half a moon. Breeze is calm and so is my spirit.

The best part! I’m practicing my Turkish! Although I hardly understand one word they are saying! Body language speaks for itself, and a big smiling face says it all!! Now we are having cay (tea) at the “why” table hehehe they burn pine cones in the tea maker.

Ankara music, a favorite many of you know….time to dance, be free, and celebrate life!

The bride to be is beautiful..all the women are doting over her. They are very accommodating to me. Even though I am an “outsider” I feel very welcome and am having a great time dancing and watching the festivities. They did the traditional money dance, and then the guys and the girls separately dance a particular dance (I don’t know the steps) in unison to show their congratulations and respect for the new couple. This is just another window into Turkish life that I learn each time I visit. My love for this country and these people grows and grows.

Last Day - Istanbul

It seems to be very busy here now. It took over one hour to get from the airport, which usually takes 30 minutes, tops. I swear the taxi drivers don’t know the easiest route to my hotel!!

Sitting on my balcony at Hali Hotel listening to a concert going on in the park. Time to take a walkabout and see what it’s all about- sounds like traditional Ottoman military music.

I found what looks like a Turkish stock market! The exchange rate is fluctuating and they are going crazy today! This is in a back street in the Grand Bazaar. I tried to be incognito to take this so it’s a quickie, but it was just crazy, all the racket and cell phones! Yelling and jumping around!

My friend Hashim who sells the felt dolls in now living in Italy and I miss him so much. He’s always been such a great help in finding my stuff in the Grand Bazaar. Today I met with his brother now working in the shop. I had to make him smile for the camera, he is always so serious!

Had the dinner at a sidewalk café…chicken kebab, tomatoes, chips, (French fries) salad, and tea. Now it is time to pack up, say goodbye to friends, and catch the last Ezan of the evening.

Wondering what it is that draws me to this place again and again…even in Romania I don’t feel this…Greece as well. The Turkish people know what it is, but they live it in such a natural way, they can’t say it to me in words…but they understand. Always when I am here I have the next plan made for when I will return, but this time no, I don’t. It feels like a “goodbye” trip, but I know deep inside it cannot be my last. I will find a way to return, to soar with the seagulls once again and be free! I just don’t know when that will be, but it MUST be, or my spirit will dim and I cannot live. Merchandise, tours, or another sojourn journey, I must find the way…